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Fearless India Pale Ale (Expressionless Frog Brewery, 6.5%)

Dec 07, 2012 • June x, 2016 • two minute read • Bring together the conversation

Dead Frog Fearless IPA This is the 4th in a series of reviews on thenew wave of B.C. IPAs. This province already produces some of the all-time India Pale Ales in Canada and arguably North America – I'yard looking at yous,Carmine Racer andFat Tug – but that doesn't deter arts and crafts brewers releasing new takes on the style into an increasingly crowded marketplace.

I've always felt Dead Frog has been the victim of a slight snobbery in craft beer circles.

The fact is they do accept some great beers in their lineup, including the splendid Nut Brown, a hugely sessionable (and recently revamped) pale ale and a decent lager.

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Add together to that a growing list of ever-improving limited releases, crowned by the judiciously spiced Beeracle, the beautiful Citra IPA and sumptuous French-Oaked Stiff Stout, and you have a very noteworthy roster.

People always seem to focus on their slightly more out-there creations such as the pepper-lime lager (still not convinced, personally, but add some to the pot the next time y'all make a chili) and mandarin orange ale (very pleasant) and get off on one near how they don't make proper beer.

Does Dead Frog's deliberately OTT marketing grate on some people? Or is the brewery a victim of its own success? After all, Dead Frog is doing very well, having expanded successfully into other provinces and getting a wee financial boost from a sure Jim Treliving.

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Well, now the gloves are off. Head brewer Derrick Smith recently bought out the brewery'south owners, told everyone to dial up the flavour, and every bit Dead Frog'southward new president brought in two heavy weight names in B.C. craft brewing circles: Tony Dewald (Dix BBQ and Brewery) and Tim Brown (Mission Springs).

Dewald and Brownish's first beer is a signal of intent.

Packed with hops including Pour, Columbus, Galaxy and Zythos, this signature Pacific Northwest hop flop clocks in at 77 IBUs and pours a night, clear amber with a total carbonation creating a rich, rocky, white head.

Heady aromas of melon, pineapple and sun-warmed pine rise higher up a rich but only-sugariness-enough malt undercurrent that has hints of toast and wildflower honey.

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That perfectly pitched, slightly scorched malt sweetness – almost scotch-like in its caramel smoothness – comes through first on the palate before pine notes resonate. In that location are highlights of melon and guava in the beer's sumptuous juiciness, which is helped along further by wonderfully soft, smooth, full mouthfeel.

Finally, a moving ridge of bitterness grows and crashes into the sides and back of the tongue and mouth, almost constricting the tongue and leaving some lovely floral, herbal highlights with hints of thyme and rosemary. Information technology leaves a bracing dryness and a brackeny warm glow in the throat.

Fearless is a white-knuckle ride of a beer. It's a superbly constructed IPA that'southward monumentally flavoured but all the same amazingly smooth and drinkable.

This beer certainly won't be afraid of spicy food. Cajun, jerk and traditional Mexican dishes would make for some great pairings, too every bit dry out, fiery curries.

4.5 out of 5 -- Exceptional

Beer Cat: LOVES

$iv.99, 650ml, at B.C. Liquor Stores

j zeschky@theprovince.com
twitter.com/jantweats

Other reviews in the New Wave of IPAs serial:

Coal Harbour Powell IPA

Spinnakers Hoptoria

Fernie Lonely Wolf IPA

Townsite Tin Chapeau IPA

Lighthouse Switchback IPA

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